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February Feature


Michael Lee and Emily Sunderman are partners in life and in cheesemaking. They have been making cheese at Twig Farm, their idyllic 20-acre property just outside of Middlebury, Vermont, since 2005. A small herd of pastured does produces most of the milk for their aged raw milk cheeses, and the farm also sources additional milk from neighboring dairies. Lee, a former cheesemonger who honed his craft at Vermont's Peaked Mountain Farm, uses traditional cheesemaking methods along with careful affinage techniques to create award-winning cheeses with stunningly beautiful rinds.
Twig Farm's Fuzzy Wheel is made from a blend of raw cow and goat's milk. It develops a somewhat gnarly natural rind and a funky aroma, and offers a slightly soft paste with clean flavors of grass and minerals.


Goat Tomme: An earthy, soft gray-brown rind covers this dainty drum of firm, aged goat cheese. Underneath, the paste offers bright flavors of herbs and grass, a perfect reflection of the clean, delicious milk that Twig Farm's goats produce.


Aged up to seven months for a firm texture, Mixed Drum is made with a combination of Twig Farm goat's milk and Ayrshire cow's milk from a nearby farm. The cow's milk carries flavors of nuts and grass, while the goat's milk imparts mild lactic, yeasty notes.


Twig Farm Square is an unpressed cheese that is formed in a tied cloth, which gives it its unique shape. It is made entirely of goat's milk, and is aged for about 80 days for a firm texture. It has a mottled natural rind, and its paste offers clean flavors of grass and herbs. It is perfect with a drizzle of honey and a handful of roasted nuts, alongside a glass of hard cider or a lighter ale.























Mt. Alice
Since 2009, the von Trapps have been making organic artisan cheeses at their family's dairy farm in Waitsfield, Vermont. They keep an organic herd of about 50 Jersey, Ayrshire, Normande and Montbeliarde cows, and strive to be an example of how a small family farm can be economically viable by producing small-batch cheeses.   Showcasing the farm's organic milk with its richness and creamy texture, Mt Alice wears a thin bloomy rind and has a supple paste that becomes gooey with age. Younger wheels are bright and milky with flavors of crème fraiche, white button mushroom, dough and floral lemon. The cheese becomes earthier as it ages, offering flavors of cultured butter, cooked brassica and shiitake mushroom, with a woodsy rind.